Saturday, June 11, 2011

For a good rest: the Santa Croce

To the eastern part of the city of Florence there's a Franciscan church that stands out for an interesting characteristic. It is a church that became popular as a final resting place for many Florentines.

The entire church is intentionally unimpressive, as opposed to other much more grandiose churches at the time. The idea is again a Franciscan theme of humility and poverty. Over the years though, the public people of Florence would constantly provide donations to the church. Despite being quite large and still well decorated, it still portrays a simple image.

Inside the church complex, there tombs and sepulchers all over the place. Many are even on the floor of the main church. This is a practice that goes with the Franciscan ideal of humility. It serves to remind the living that we are dust that may be trampled upon, and invites one to meditate on death and life beyond it.

Though originally it was the common public who first chose this place to be buried, eventually more illustrious members of Florentine society would choose this as their burial site.

Galileo, who wasn't on good terms with the pope at the time, has a sepulcher here. The Franciscans secretly took his body after he died and buried it in the sacristy of the Santa Croce. They felt that everyone deserved a Christian burial. Eventually Galileo was vindicated, and now his body rests in the main church under a grand monument.
Galileo's tomb with his bust

Directly across Galileo is the tomb of Michelangelo. Despite the artist's wishes to have his body remain in Rome, the Medicis, Michelangelo's primary patron and most powerful family in Florence, brought his body back to Florence.
Michelangelo's tomb

Also buried here is Niccolo Machiavelli, who is famous for his book "The Prince". Finally, there is a monument to Dante. Despite many attempts by the Florence municipality to get his body, all their attempts have been denied.

Machiavelli's tomb

Inside the church museum, they have the famous Cimabue cross. Originally in the main church facing the congregation, it was eventually removed for preservation and replaced with a copy. It's notable because it's the first time that Christ on the cross is depicted suffering as opposed to triumphant. It's a lesson that the Franciscans wanted to impart on the public. Jesus, though God, is still a man like all of us. Thus He knows very well all our needs and weaknesses.

The Cimabue cross, in need of much restoration still

The amount of restoration work here is quite painstaking. In the 17th century, there was a great flood that reached the height of 7 feet. This obviously damaged the art in the area significantly. Over the years, slow meticulous work has been done to preserve the works and restore them to a state that can be enjoyed today.

BONUS: The robe worn by St. Francis of Assisi

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